Roughing it in the Yucatan

Roughing it in the Yucatan
Merida yard work

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Under the Fan in the Yucatan: Shopping



The especialidades of the rest of Mexico are not so much in evidence here.  Talavera (brightly colored ceramics), silver, blankets and rugs are available here and there but they have been shipped in from the interior.  (And are also shipped out to the other coasts as well for the turistas there.)

The Yucatan has its own temptations for the gringa shopper.  First, there is the world famous henequen.  (It is quite ironic that when the henequen boom was dying out in the 50s and 60s, the Yucatecans started to sell plants to places like Brazil which is now the number one henequen producer in the world.)  Anything that can be made from that coarse fibre is available at very reasonable price and dyed in very attractive colors -- baskets of all kinds, placemats, coasters, trivets, hats, etc.

Hammocks are also a major consumer item.  Traditionally made from henequen they are now more common in brightly colored nylon (for durability and affordability) or cotton (for comfort).  The better quality cotton hammocks tend to be left a natural off-white color.  They are available for sale from street vendors and every corner store as well as souvenir shops and a few speciality outlets.

The men's shirts or guayaberras previously mentioned are also available everywhere in every size, color and price point.  Usually cotton or linen, there are some cheap knockoffs in a polycotton blend.  Vendors try to tell you that their guayaberras are henequen which I seriously doubt as that fibre is much too coarse.
The huipil dresses, blouses and belts are also everywhere and in amazing colors and designs.  The heavy cotton embroidery is also applied to table runners, bedspreads and anything else made of cotton or linen.
Much is hand done but most is done by machine.  There is also a decorative cross stitch on some of the more subtle textiles that is almost always hand done.

Objects made from the local limestone are also a hot commodity.  The white stone contrasts nicely with a redder stone available further south near Ticul and many objects like napkin holders, coasters and larger items too are available if your luggage can handle the weight.

In addition to the local artisans, there is work available from nationally recognized artisans from other areas who work in mainly wood and ceramic.  Some of the better shops handle their work and much of it is amazingly affordable in small pieces.

The best deals in Merida are taxis, the bus to Progreso (the ocean), fresh flowers, nonperishable food from the ISSTEY (co-op), liquor and pretty much anything made of henequen.

Electronics. cars and luxury items are about the same as home so more difficult for the average Yucatecan to acquire.

While many locals shop at the insane downtown market there are no real deals to be had unless you are a skilled bargainer.  The further from downtown the better the deals except for the large indoor shopping malls with shops like Hugo Boss and Prada.  Considering the average Mexican wage I wonder who actually shops there . . . but somebody must.  ($5.00 per day is the minimum wage and many Meridanos earn about $10.00.)

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