First, as my blog title illustrates, ceiling fans are EVERYWHERE. There is a ceiling fan in everyroom of our casa even the little guest bathroom and two on the back patio. Electricity is expensive in Merida but fans are a must.
Next clue to the relentless heat is the high ceilings. Even the most humble abodes have twelve foot ceilings. Posher residences and mansions are thirty feet and higher. Got to get that heat up and out of there.
Much of life in Merida is lived outdoors. Homes have courtyards and patios and neighbourhoods have parks and squares. Most entertainment happens outdoors year round.
The Yucatan is famous for their hammocks. Originally woven from the henequen or sisal that made the state famous, they are now available in cotton or nylon in every color of the rainbow and just about as many sizes and qualities. Nylon is cheap and more durable but the locals prefer the cotton for its comfort. They regard hammocks as indoor furniture and hot weather beds. Every colonial home we have seen has muliple hammock hooks or rings for hooks imbedded in the concrete walls. Our casa has hammock hooks in all the rooms except the kitchen and bathrooms but we have hung ours up on the back patio -- under the fans!
Most homes in Merida, especially the old Colonial ones, do not have clothes closets. While they may have wardrobes for storing some things, clothes are hung on attractive two-tier wrought iron racks much like retail display. With the heat and humidity, clothes would become very musty and moldy in short order without air circulating around them.
The pasta floors are beautiful, resilient, easy to clean and . . . . cool under hot bare feet.
And speaking of feet, next to nonsensible shoes (more on fashion late), the most common footwear here is -- you guessed it -- flipflops. They are one of the major items for sale in the massive maniacal market downtown -- hundreds of thousands of flipflops in very color, pattern imaginable and some that aren't. Hot weather shoes! And easy to kick off when you hit those cool pasta tiles at home.
Houses are designed with cross draughts in mind including the "shot gun" style that I mentioned previously. The wrought iron gratings while beautiful were originally intended to let in the breeze while keeping larger things -- like cats, dogs, people and most birds-- out.
Most homes here now have air conditioners too. Our casa has one in each bedroom and one in the living room. They are called "mini-splits" for some reason that has never been explained to me. Only modern businesses or luxury homes have central a/c. Most vehicles have a/c but Meridanos use it sparingly this time of year. Most businesses, especially those catering to gringos, have it running year round so their electrical bills are probably one of the highest costs in their overhead.
Pools! Anyone who can possibly afford one, especially northerners, has a concrete plunge pool in the back or central garden. None of them are heated so this time of year they can be quite envigorating although I imagine they are Nirvana come June.
Meridanos are really big on juice. Blenders are the number one kitchen appliance in this city. While we are swilling cervaza, margaritas and soft drinks, they are hitting the "jugo" hard. Juice stands are everywhere equipped with blender, cups and piles and piles of fruit. The heat and the availability of cheap high quality fresh fruit make juice a logical choice for staying hydrated.
Merida is also famous for their guayabera shirts. They are men's dress shirts usually made of cotton or linen and usually short sleeved. Most guayaberas are white probably because it is a cool color and looks good on dark skinned people. While they are available in many colors most gringos choose a cream or off-white color. They are beautifully detailed with tiny pleats, tucks and embroidery in the same color as the shirt and are worn hanging loose. They take the place of a suit in Mexican male formal wear. A very sensible choice in this climate.
The women's traditional wardrobe is populated by loose cotton dresses with short or cap sleeves and the more formal the occasion the more embroidery on the dress. These dresses are worn only by the elderly and gringas now as the young women prefer their jeans even if they are impractical.
It is not unusual to see older folks wearing heavy sweaters (and even a parka!) in the evenings while we are still in our shorts and sleeveless shirts and wondering why it got dark so early. (Our northern brains are programmed to think warm evening = long days.)
So there you have it -- even though we are enjoying 30 degree celsius days now , it IS winter and gets much, much hotter here.
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